Tokyo Accomodation

Attached is a night photo of Tokyo Tower taken from our apartment balcony. It was a heavily cloudy night, thus the light reflection above the tower. The apartment we stay in has 3 bedroom, 1 bath plus a seperate toilet. Y29800 (US$3200)for 65sqm per month. XGG has lived in 4 apartments all near Tokyo Tower through the 9 years here. We have stayed in all 4. I cannot remember one that was uncleaned. Somehow the Japanese has made tidiness and cleanliness into an art. When in Tokyo, forget the 300-400sqm homes in melbourne, even our 144sqm apartment in Beijing feels luxurious space-wise.

The standard toilets here come with heated seat. There is a tap that flows into the water cistern automatically each time the toilet is flushed, meant for washing hand with the same clean water that goes into toilet cistern for flushing later. That is now Kimberley's favourite hand washing spot......

Within the building, lady 'neighbours' and youngsters will bow their heads to say hello each time we meet at the common lift. I always acknowledge with a smile in return, but I have never initiated a bow to a stranger, yet.

To Tokyo on Northwest

It has been a while since we last took a flight on a US airline. At Beijing airport, the security checks for Northwest Airlines passengers were 2 layers extra than normal. Our checked-in baggage were opened and checked by Customs at the NWA check in counters, plus the usual xray just behind the checkin counters. We were asked to stay until the bags have cleared the Xrays. Then our carry-on baggage were scanned upon entering the boarding gate area as per normal. No liquid is allowed through here, so we always bring an empty bottle to be filled with drinking water once inside. The final bag check was a surprise, just before boarding the plane. By then we had filled our empty bottle with drinking water. That was taken away.

The flight was full. We landed 30mins ahead of schedule due to favourable tail winds. Most passengers on that flight were transiting to the US. Kristine, Kimberley and I breezed through Tokyo Immigration and Customs. There were free supplies of face masks at the quarantine desk. Just an officer on duty manning a temperature camera. We didnt even have to wait for our bags. They were there as we reached the carousel.

the limsine bus ticket(japan)i bought it. 1 ticket is ::kids:1500 yen adult: 3000 yen...it:kristinegiam!!**

Kristine had her chance to practise her Nihongo buying our airport limo tickets.

The trip to ANA hotel downtown took 90mins. We had two front seats. Kimberley got to sit on my laps for free without ticket. It was a long trip for the kids and they were very tired. When Kristine and Kimberley became boisterous with laughters, the driver showed his displeasure by staring at us through the rear-view mirror.

Photo1: Kris n Kim at Beijing boarding gate

Photo2: with Adelu at carpark downstairs of apartment building.

Double Decker

Their first ride in a Beijing double decker bus. It was a hot day with temp in the mid 30s. The bus being not air-conditioned, was hot in the upper deck when it was stationery, but what can one complain for US$0.06 per ride for adults and kids ride free?

MJ DVDs

A present from Grace for Kristine. The metallic box contains 33 of MJ's dvds spanning his entire career. What makes this gift interesting is how Kristine tried to flog this off to Kylie: A$50 for the dvds, and another A$50 for the box. Kylie did not take the bait.

Norbulinkha‏

A park between Potala Palace and Lhasa River that housed Dalai Lama's summer residence from March to October. The park is big but the residence is not palatial. Dalai stayed inside Potala Palace from November to February.

The clocks inside Dalai's summer residence stopped at 9:00. It was 9pm that Dalai left that summer residence for India in 1959 and never returned. The residence is now maintained as a museum, with everything kept as it was.

We met a cheerful curator monk who explained some remarkable insights to us. Haitao spent a long time going through the carpet designs. They were thick lambs wool carpet without any protective covering to cushion the tourists shoes. Xiao Lu, our Lhasa expat friend from Beijing, made it his mission to chase this up through the local govt ranks.

Unlike Potala Palace, the summer residence comes with modern amenities, porcelain toilets and bathtubs (no photos allowed inside). Bulky radios presented by Indian PM Nehru, and beautiful hanging lampshades.

New Life into Potala Lake‏

A day after meeting the Reincarnation Kid (转世灵童）, we rescued three turtles from a local fish market for release into lake next to Potala Palace. Our mission attracted many curious eyes, from kids to adults, from visitors to park rangers. They were all duly supportive and entertained.

The smallest turtle was released into a small pond by Jane and Haitao. The two bigger turtles were released into an adjoining deeper lake, with help from 3 local Tibetan kids, who promised to return each week to check up the turtles.

Japanese Home Tutor

Kristine with her Japanese tutor. Mise-san is an exchange student in Beijing from Kyoto. 3 times a week, Kristine gets to practise her Japanese at home with her. The actual lesson lasts just 1 hour but she always ends up staying 3-4 hours.

Never a shortage of drama from Kimberley‏

It is not uncommon for Kimberley to bleed from her nose during her sleep. This is another photo of Kimberley unintentionally creating early morning drama to scare us.

Public Transport

On bus #675 to a cinema in Wangjing. This particular bus was not air-conditioned for the day, but it cost RMB0.40 for each adult per trip.

Dancers at Home

Kristine and Kimberley took turn dancing to musical peformances on TV. Kimberley won in the 'Energy Moves' category. Kristine emerged winner in 'Artistic Expression & Style'

New Blood‏

Today, June 28, 400ml of my blood went to Beijing Blood Bank, witnessed by Grace, Kristine and Kimberley. As such, 400ml of new blood needs to be replenished henceforth.

This is my third attempt at blood donation. 1st was during the Bush Fire in Melbourne, January, 2009. The Australian Red Cross website asked donors not to visit the blood donation centres as they were inundated with donors. That crisis separated the priviledged donors from the willing donors. My second attempt was late April in beijing, but I was discouraged by the nurse for abnormally high blood pressure.

This is 3rd time lucky. Blood pressure was normal at 120/80. I didnt feel nervous. On to a bloodmobile in Wangfujing, comfortably airconditioned. A nurse gave us a tetrapack of fruit drink each. Kristine and Kimberley began to warm up to the treatment, climbing in and out of the converted coachbus each holding a pack of drink.

After passing a quick blood sample test, a bigger serious-looking needle was inserted into a vein on my right elbow. I chose to donate 400ml instead of 200ml. It went ok, until the last bit, when I started to feel dizzy and sleepy. Then a profusion of cold sweat. Needless to say, Grace, holding the camera, was laughing away. 5 minutes later, it was done and another 5 minutes later, we were off to Mackie nearby for lunch. The nurses advised plenty of fluids, preferably soups. I had 1 large Coke, , a Big Mac, a large Fries, shared half a coffee with Grace and then shared half of Kristine's small Coke as well. Soups can wait!

With that, I am now junior member in a different league in China. Interestingly, with that, my immediate family members are qualified to 400ml of emergency blood transfusion anywhere in China for free. Use of blood is not free in hospitals here. Next appointment is 6 months away.

Michael Jackson‏

Friday was a sad day for me and Kristine.

Michael Jackson died that day. My pop idol is gone, but his songs will live on.

Memory of Kylie sitting on my shoulders watchig MJ perform in Singapore National Stadium is still vivid in my mind. It was 1993 when Kylie was just 7. Our seats were close to the stage, with maybe 20 rows separating us from the stage. We thought the seats were for, errrrr, sitting. When the show started, everyone in fornt of us got wild and stood up, ON THEIR SEATS!!!!!! No way Kylie could see MJ perform, so the only choice was for her to sit on my shoulders, through the whole show. She ended up with the best seat in the stadium!

Kristine's young heart was broken that day too, by a boy who shares the same school, in the same grade and lives within the same apartment complex. School holidays have started. Kristine called him in the morning to arrange a playtime. It was to be 1pm at his home. Throughout the whole shopping time at Tesco that morning, Kristine was excitedly rushing me to finish shopping so she could be punctual for her 1pm playtime. To save time, our lunch was pastries from Tesco, eaten on the bus ride home. Upon reaching home, I suggested to Kristine to call this boy to make sure he was indeed home. To Kristine's total disappointment, the boy gave her all sorts of excuses not to meet her, including "I am on my way to Hawaii'!!!!

The first time Kristine cried (quietly) into her pillow. A few fatherly words later, Kristine was happy again, taking a video of her toys, her room, her craftwork, with her own narrative.

As Uncle Frank said when Kristine fractured her elbow, "A girl does not grow up without a few broken bones and broken heart".

Jokhang Temple (大昭寺)

The holiest of all temples in Lhasa, with an ancient Buddha statue of Sakyamuni, housed in a small chapel inside the temple. A queue into that chapel takes 2 hours. Our tour guide tried to persuade the curator monk to let us through into the chapel without queueing, without any success. Justice previals and all creatures under the eyes of Buddha Sakyamuni are equal. Built during the Tang Dynasty some 1350 years ago to honour Tang Dynasty Princess Wencheng marrying to a Tibetan King. While both Potala and Jokhang are now under World Heritage protection, Jokhang is more revered by the adage "A visit to Lhasa is not complete without a visit to Jokhang Temple".Pilgrims walked round and round, and round, and round the exterior perimeter of Jokhang Temple, some on all fours on ground every three steps. I recognise a young man who did just that on Thursday when we visited the temple. He was there again on Sunday when we returned to buy some souvenirs.

Sera Monastery (色拉寺)

A smaller monastery in Lhasa but we saw 400 monks praying in unison in monastery main hall celebrating a religious event. We saw three Tibetans offering cash of Y20, Y5 and Y5 to each monks in the hall, that is Y8000, Y2000 and Y2000 of cash. A young monk nearest me, and several other young monks, left to fetch Yak milk tea to offer to all chanting monks. Upon returning to his seat, he gave his cash to a monk next to him. I dont know the significance of his hesture, but it was interesting to watch. At the 'right' time, Tibetans will offer all their valuables to temples and start again. We stayed in the prayer hall with the monks for almost 2 hours. Many multinational tourists were mesmerised too.

Zhaibung Lamasery (哲蚌寺)

By far the largest monsatery in Lhasa with 800 resident monks (down from 8000 in its heyday).Photo shows a group of young monks participating in Buddhism quizzes by two elders. Jane and Grace are sitting on steps in background. The monasteries have electricity these days but they still rely on firewood for cooking. Water comes from bored holes. Toilets remain primitive, but the devotees remain totally devout.

Tashilhungpo Monastery 扎什伦布寺‏

This monastery, near the city of Shigatse, second largest city in Tibet, traditionally houses the residence of Banchen Lamas. The current Banchen Lama's residence is 1km away from the monastery. Bachen Lama is the equal of Dalai Lama for territories north and west of Lhasa, Qinghai province and Inner Mongolia province. Dalai Lama's influence covers territories east of Lhasa, Lhasa, and Sichuan, Yunnan provinces.

While the Potala Palace enshrines the tombs of late Dalai Lamas, Tashilhunpo Lamasery enshrines the tombs of late Banchen Lamas. The last Banchen Lama tomb took 3 years to built in 1993. Just the contribution from govt amounted to Y64million, 614kg of gold and 275kg of silver. One can easily expect contribution from the Tibetan public to be enormous too. While Potala is now a museum, with its traditional role of enshrining tombs of late Dalai Lamas in question, Tashilhunpo is functioning as a full fledge monastery, with resident monks and visiting pilgrims.

Photo#3 shows Tibetan workers flattening a new monastery floor surface. They worked in 2 groups. Each worker uses a hand-held round wooden discus and their feet to stamp the floor surfaces. Each group takes turn to work and rest, all the time stamping to the same rhythm as the songs they sing. A local Tibetan bystander told me,"That way, they dont feel tired". It was an entertainment for our eyes and ears.

Potala Palace II

Potala Palace - Lhasa‏

Potala Palace (布达拉宫)

Home to all Dalai Lamas since time immemorial. The most renown religious structure in Tibet, but disappointing to visit inside. It doesnt have the religious feel of the other 7 monasteries we entered in Tibet. No monks, no incense, no prayers inside, just plain-clothed curators with watchful eyes. It now sits as a museum. Just partially opened to tourists.

When I last visited Potala Palace with Kylie back in mid 1990's, we were driven to a gate midway up the hill slope. That route is now closed to public, reserved only for VIPs. Now the hundreds of steps from street level are real test of determination. A limit of 2500 visitors per day is imposed: 2000 from pre-arranged guided tour groups, and 500 quota for individuals who need to queue up at booking booth the day before to get 'permission'. Actual tickets (Y100 each) are to be paid for on day of visit, at the main entrance on street level. One could assign a travel agent to buy the tickets at Y200 each. All local tibetans could visit the palace at Y2 each. I forgot to ask if there was a daily quota for them. Probably not.

Potala Palace enshrines all but two late Dalai Lamas. A key question is where the current Dalai will rest after he passes away。The govt did contribute Y64million towards the enshrinement of the last Banchen Lama(Panchan Lama, equiv of Dalai for territories west of Lhasa, Qinghai and Inner Mongolia privices) inside the Tashilhunpo Lamasery (the equal of Potala) near Shigatse.

A photo shows the highest toilet in the world inside Potala Palace at about 3600m above sea level. Nothing fancy, just manholes suspended in midair. Whatever drops though those holes will take a few seconds to reach ground. Several tourists asked our tour guide where the 'highest' toilet was inside the palace. Out of curiosity, I decided to venture inside, took a photo and dashed out. The palace does look spectacular at night, lights on at 915pm.

Where It All Began II

Where It All Began

The farmland below and the Temple high above are believed to be where the Tibetan tribes began. Folklore tells of a Monkey God who subdued an evil woman and with blessing from God, they lived together and reproduced 500 decendants who later became Tibetan tribes dispersing through the vast expense of the highlands searching for new pastures and food.

This temple (雍布拉康) was originally built as a palace, the first in Tibet, which later was extended to become a temple, surrounded by the first cultivated fields in Tibet. The first Tibetan barley is believed to have started from these fields. Grace Jane and I took horses up the hill to the temple. Haitao, XiaoLu and our tourguide walked and reached the top earlier! We put up two strings of Tibetan Buddhist banners onto a tall post by the temple. We took the steps down, passing many local Tibetans on their ways up to pray at the temple, obviously a holy site to many. A photo shows a solar reflector heating a kettle. Widely used throughout Tibet.